Glycolic Acid / Glycolic Acid

When the war against wrinkles is under the motto "prevention," then glycolic acid is your best ally!

Also known as hydroxyacetic acid, it is a familiar name in the world of cosmetics. It is one of the most studied acids today, so it is no surprise that it is so commonly found in skincare products.

Glycolic acid is naturally derived and obtained from sugar cane. It belongs to the family of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), along with other well-known members such as malic and lactic acid.

From a chemical perspective, glycolic acid has a very small molecule size, which is a big advantage in cosmetics because it facilitates its deep penetration into the skin, providing intensive, long-lasting, and visible effects.

In cosmetic procedures, it is used in concentrations ranging from the lowest (up to 15%) to very high concentrations (between 35-70%), used by dermatologists to treat various skin problems.

The risk of skin damage increases proportionally with the increase in its percentage content, so it should only be applied under professional supervision.

Glycolic acid in dermatology

Due to its low pH, many dermatologists, surgeons, and aesthetic doctors choose to apply it for treatment of photoaging, wrinkles, acne, melasma, scars, and similar conditions.

• Because of its high acidity and easy solubility, glycolic acid is often used as an exfoliating agent. It is usually included as an active ingredient in creams or gels with keratolytic action. It destroys the accumulated layer of dead cells, resulting in the dermis looking much smoother and rejuvenated.
• Another advantage, thanks to its ability to penetrate deeply into the skin, is that it helps moisturizers reach the deeper layers of the newly revealed healthy skin.
• Due to its strong exfoliating power, this is one of the alpha-hydroxy acids most commonly used against dark spots. Applied in the correct dose and combined with a whitening agent, it helps remove the upper layers of the skin, eliminating dead cells and erasing pigment spots. If you undergo such combined therapy, be sure to use sunscreen during the day to protect the new skin and prevent re-pigmentation.
• The results in acne treatment with glycolic acid are very positive, as by "polishing" the epidermis, the acid manages to improve its condition and reduce the appearance of pimples and blackheads. In this way, it improves the keratinization process and accelerates cell turnover.
• The ingredient also successfully deals with scars left by acne outbreaks. It controls sebum production and eliminates shine.
• Glycolic acid is hygroscopic, meaning it has the ability to capture and transport water molecules – one of the qualities that gives it a particular advantage when we want to provide deep skin hydration. In this way, it prevents premature aging and maintains the skin's natural moisture and freshness for longer.
• It protects and stimulates the formation of collagen and elastin in the skin and thus increases its regenerative capacity.
• It reduces and fills in fine lines, such as crow's feet, wrinkles on the forehead and at the corners of the mouth, etc. The result is visibly younger and smoother skin.

Glycolic acid in percentages

It is important to note that glycolic acid can be used in different concentrations and its effect on the skin directly depends on this. 5-10% leads to gradual skin renewal. Products with this percentage content can be used daily at home, with minimal risk of irritation.

At concentrations between 15 and 30%, the effects of glycolic acid are more pronounced – the skin renews faster, but the process may cause irritation or redness. These types of products should be used under medical supervision and are usually applied to prepare the skin for a stronger peel.

For peeling and complete skin renewal, products with 35 to 70% glycolic acid content are used. Cosmetics with such concentration should be strictly applied by a dermatologist, as these types of treatments often require recovery time and subsequent home care.

When and how to use glycolic acid?

It is recommended to include products with this acid in your routine during the colder months because then the sun's radiation is not as strong. It is best to apply them in the evening before bed and on perfectly cleansed skin, with gentle massaging movements. If you use a cream or toner with this ingredient during the day, be sure to apply it before sunscreen, which should have a high SPF.

One more tip: glycolic acid should not come into direct contact with the skin around the eyes, as this area is very sensitive. After the first few applications, you may feel some itching or burning, but do not worry – this effect passes quickly, and the result is worth it – soft and smooth skin. (However, if irritation persists, stop use immediately and consult a dermatologist if necessary.)

Glycolic acid is a good ally and can be combined with other ingredients that are powerful antioxidants, such as hyaluronic and kojic acid. Its exfoliating action helps the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making their effect more effective and noticeable.

In any case, to have clear and radiant skin, read labels carefully, get informed, assess your needs correctly, and act only when you are sure of the desired effect.