Choosing cosmetic products for most ladies (and not only) is an equation with many unknowns. This is quite justified – it is difficult to navigate the vast sea of brands, and even more difficult to compose and optimize the most suitable skin care routine.
For this mission to succeed, it must be acknowledged that the desired effect on the skin comes not from the form or texture of the cosmetic, but from the ingredients in it and their concentration. This means that you do not start the journey with a choice between cream, serum, or lotion, but with the question “what substances are contained in this formula and does my skin need them”!
In the following lines, we will try to shed more light on the active ingredients in cosmetics – and we clarify in advance that we will be talking about the so-called “white cosmetics” (skincare).
This term refers to all products used for skin care:
- cleansing
- maintenance
- special effect
- cell protection, etc.
What are active ingredients and why are they called that?
Simply put – "active" are those ingredients in the formulation of cosmetic products that, when applied to the skin, should act against a specific problem or specific condition. Most often, such action is sought against acne, pigmentation, signs of aging, dehydration, dermatitis, dermatological diagnoses such as psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, etc.
Cosmetics containing active substances are not suitable for use by absolutely everyone – i.e., they are not universal. The reason is that the skin's needs vary when it comes to different issues, such as deep wrinkles or excessive oiliness and pimples, for example.
Consider this category as skincare products with "extras"! They are applied to the skin's surface but penetrate its deeper layers and trigger certain biochemical processes aimed at resolving the problem.
For greater clarity, let's consider a simple example: dry skin usually has a disrupted water-lipid barrier – it is rough, flaky, and often itchy. Suitable cosmetic products for it should contain ingredients that simultaneously restore the skin's stratum corneum and retain moisture in the epidermis. A proven active ingredient with such an effect is urea – i.e., if you aim to improve the condition of dry skin, you should look for cosmetics containing this substance in their composition.
It is also worth noting that not only the presence of an active ingredient is crucial for a good result. Always pay attention to the concentration of the ingredient in question. We will again use urea as a clear example: when included at 5% to 10%, it has a pronounced moisturizing effect. However, at concentrations above 20%, it exhibits a strong exfoliating action. Cosmetic products with around 40% urea are even capable of dissolving and removing accumulated keratinized tissue, such as thickened nails or calluses.
When reading labels, it is also good to know that the further back in the ingredient list a particular substance is, the less of it is present in the formula. By following this principle, you can easily judge whether you can expect real effects on the skin from this cosmetic or if its presentation and description are more of a marketing trick.
Take some time and review our list of the most popular active ingredients in skincare products – what they are and what they are used for:
Exfoliating cosmetic acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)
Their main function is to exfoliate (shed) dead cells from the surface of the skin – a process that renews it and stimulates cell metabolism. Representatives of this category are:
- glycolic
- lactic
- tartaric (wine) and
- citric acid
They are water-soluble substances and for this reason, their action is limited to the upper layers of the skin.
As active ingredients, they are very successfully used in cosmetic products against fine lines and early wrinkles, uneven tone and dark spots, enlarged pores, problematic skin. Such cosmetics are applied carefully because alpha hydroxy acids have a certain irritant potential – i.e., they can cause burning and redness upon application.
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs)
Their application on the skin is also related to chemical exfoliation of dead cells, but being fat-soluble, they have the ability to penetrate its deeper layers. Beta-hydroxy acids can wonderfully clean pores from excess sebum and impurities, reducing inflammation and limiting the growth of harmful bacteria. Salicylic acid is the most popular active ingredient from this group and is indispensable for acne-prone skin with visible imperfections and blackheads.
Ceramides
Although they have been talked about relatively recently, these lipids (fat molecules) are of great importance not only for the beauty of the skin but also for the health of the entire body. Like many other substances, ceramides are produced in our bodies – this happens in the uppermost layer of the epidermis.
Their main task is to be the first barrier against environmental invaders, but at the same time they are a direct responsible for the freshness and “juiciness” of the skin. When ceramide production decreases – which usually happens after the age of 25 – it is good to look for them as a active ingredient in cosmetic products we use.
Retinoids
Едно голямо и ценно за красотата семейство, в чиято основа стои ретинола или добре познатия на науката витамин А1, част от семейството витамини А. Действието на ретиноидите като активни съставки е със широк спектър – от третиране на акне и проблемна кожа до специализирана анти ейдж (противостарееща) грижа за кожата. Коя от тези характеристики ще се подчертае в конкретен козметичен продукт зависи от формулата, в която ще се вложи ретиноидът – видът, концентрацията му, комбинацията с други активни съставки, помощните вещества в състава.
The most commonly used retinoids in cosmetics depend on the desired effect and the strength with which they need to be applied to the skin according to the treated problem. Their order by strength of action is retinyl palmitate > retinol > retinaldehyde. Prescription products also use retinoic acid – a compound with even stronger action but also a higher risk of side effects and irritation.
If you are struggling with some of the problems listed above, you can't go wrong by choosing a product with a retinoid in the composition!
Vitamin C
It is no secret that it is among the most powerful antioxidants in nature, and when used as an active ingredient in cosmetics, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin in the skin. Besides refreshing and rejuvenating, it is also used in various depigmenting therapies to combat dark spots and scars.
When choosing cosmetic products with vitamin C, it is good to look for the label stating “L-ascorbic acid” – this is the only form of the substance that the skin can absorb when applied topically (i.e., when applied to its surface). Many brands use vitamin C derivatives in their formulas such as ascorbyl palmitate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate – better save your money on such products. Invest wisely in something your skin will truly benefit from.
Vitamin E
An active ingredient that most often appears on cosmetic labels under the code name “tocopherol” or “tocopheryl acetate”. Its action is associated with neutralizing free radicals – help that every aging skin needs. Even better studied is the ability of vitamin E to hydrate – clinical studies prove that it can enhance the barrier function, as well as support the skin's recovery process after wounds and injuries.
We do not claim exhaustiveness with this list, but its purpose is different – to clearly mark the classic active ingredients – tested, effective, and well tolerated by the skin.
However, cosmetology is developing at an incredible pace, and the topic of avant-garde formulas and innovations tops our own priorities. We believe that in the search for new solutions, in combining, researching technologies and possibilities, lies the true mastery of creating exceptional cosmetic products.
Let's open the door to the future and mention some of the most popular new cosmetic ingredients
Ingredients focusing on the skin microbiome – a new generation of “microbiome cosmetics”
Probiotics
Probiotics are increasingly used in cosmetic products, but the new wave brings with it a new understanding of the role of prebiotics (broadly speaking – the food for probiotics) and postbiotics (again broadly speaking – when probiotics digest prebiotics, postbiotics are produced). It should be noted that these will be the real stars in the near future. To clarify: probiotics take care of maintaining the balance of the microbiome (this is the term for the collection of bacteria contained in our body).
For the skin to produce probiotics on its own, it needs prebiotics – that is why you will increasingly see ingredients like xylitol, sorbitol, or fructooligosaccharides on labels.
Postbiotics
Postbiotics are not unknown to us – representatives of this group are already popular cosmetic ingredients like hyaluronic acid and peptides.
Hyaluronic acid is rightly regarded as the “fountain of youth” – its ability to attract and retain water in tissues is amazing! However, when choosing a product with this active ingredient, be demanding!
For optimal hydrating and rejuvenating effect, it is necessary to combine both forms of the acid – high molecular weight and low molecular weight. Very often manufacturers include only one type but actively advertise all the known benefits of this ingredient.
Peptides
Peptides, in turn, are considered the future of anti-aging care – an expensive but promising innovation in the fight against aging.
Tranexamic acid
Cosmetologists boldly state that at certain concentrations it can revolutionize therapies against hyperpigmentation. There is also increasing evidence of its ability to restructure the skin, restoring its youthful appearance. You can now try this valuable next-generation cosmetic ingredient with our newest product – Pure Skin illuminating day cream with SPF50+.
Substances compensating for estrogen deficiency in the skin
It is a fact that within the first 5 years after menopause, collagen in a woman's skin decreases by up to 30%, which in turn leads to loss of density and increased sensitivity. New formulas with phytoestrogens aim to restore balance and improve the condition of aging skin.
Electrolytes – potassium, sodium, magnesium
They are known for their ability to retain water in tissues, and more and more brands are starting to use them (mainly in their lactate compounds) as a cosmetic ingredient to offer a fresher look and optimal hydration.
The journey through the world of cosmetics and their ingredients can truly be endless – but you certainly already know – skin care starts with… properly reading the labels! Arm yourself with patience and remember that the marketers' job is to create beautiful and attractive packaging, but it is your responsibility to decide whether to use its contents on your skin.
Cosmetics and their ingredients
Choosing cosmetic products for most ladies (and not only) is an equation with many unknowns. This is quite justified – it is difficult to navigate the vast sea of brands, and even more difficult to compose and optimize the most suitable skin care routine.
For this mission to succeed, it must be acknowledged that the desired effect on the skin comes not from the form or texture of the cosmetic, but from the ingredients in it and their concentration. This means that you do not start the journey with a choice between cream, serum, or lotion, but with the question “what substances are contained in this formula and does my skin need them”!
In the following lines, we will try to shed more light on the active ingredients in cosmetics – and we clarify in advance that we will be talking about the so-called “white cosmetics” (skincare).
This term refers to all products used for skin care:
What are active ingredients and why are they called that?
Simply put – "active" are those ingredients in the formulation of cosmetic products that, when applied to the skin, should act against a specific problem or specific condition. Most often, such action is sought against acne, pigmentation, signs of aging, dehydration, dermatitis, dermatological diagnoses such as psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, etc.
Cosmetics containing active substances are not suitable for use by absolutely everyone – i.e., they are not universal. The reason is that the skin's needs vary when it comes to different issues, such as deep wrinkles or excessive oiliness and pimples, for example.
Consider this category as skincare products with "extras"! They are applied to the skin's surface but penetrate its deeper layers and trigger certain biochemical processes aimed at resolving the problem.
For greater clarity, let's consider a simple example: dry skin usually has a disrupted water-lipid barrier – it is rough, flaky, and often itchy. Suitable cosmetic products for it should contain ingredients that simultaneously restore the skin's stratum corneum and retain moisture in the epidermis. A proven active ingredient with such an effect is urea – i.e., if you aim to improve the condition of dry skin, you should look for cosmetics containing this substance in their composition.
It is also worth noting that not only the presence of an active ingredient is crucial for a good result. Always pay attention to the concentration of the ingredient in question. We will again use urea as a clear example: when included at 5% to 10%, it has a pronounced moisturizing effect. However, at concentrations above 20%, it exhibits a strong exfoliating action. Cosmetic products with around 40% urea are even capable of dissolving and removing accumulated keratinized tissue, such as thickened nails or calluses.
When reading labels, it is also good to know that the further back in the ingredient list a particular substance is, the less of it is present in the formula. By following this principle, you can easily judge whether you can expect real effects on the skin from this cosmetic or if its presentation and description are more of a marketing trick.
Take some time and review our list of the most popular active ingredients in skincare products – what they are and what they are used for:
Exfoliating cosmetic acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)
Their main function is to exfoliate (shed) dead cells from the surface of the skin – a process that renews it and stimulates cell metabolism. Representatives of this category are:
They are water-soluble substances and for this reason, their action is limited to the upper layers of the skin.
As active ingredients, they are very successfully used in cosmetic products against fine lines and early wrinkles, uneven tone and dark spots, enlarged pores, problematic skin. Such cosmetics are applied carefully because alpha hydroxy acids have a certain irritant potential – i.e., they can cause burning and redness upon application.
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs)
Their application on the skin is also related to chemical exfoliation of dead cells, but being fat-soluble, they have the ability to penetrate its deeper layers. Beta-hydroxy acids can wonderfully clean pores from excess sebum and impurities, reducing inflammation and limiting the growth of harmful bacteria. Salicylic acid is the most popular active ingredient from this group and is indispensable for acne-prone skin with visible imperfections and blackheads.
Ceramides
Although they have been talked about relatively recently, these lipids (fat molecules) are of great importance not only for the beauty of the skin but also for the health of the entire body. Like many other substances, ceramides are produced in our bodies – this happens in the uppermost layer of the epidermis.
Their main task is to be the first barrier against environmental invaders, but at the same time they are a direct responsible for the freshness and “juiciness” of the skin. When ceramide production decreases – which usually happens after the age of 25 – it is good to look for them as a active ingredient in cosmetic products we use.
Retinoids
Едно голямо и ценно за красотата семейство, в чиято основа стои ретинола или добре познатия на науката витамин А1, част от семейството витамини А. Действието на ретиноидите като активни съставки е със широк спектър – от третиране на акне и проблемна кожа до специализирана анти ейдж (противостарееща) грижа за кожата. Коя от тези характеристики ще се подчертае в конкретен козметичен продукт зависи от формулата, в която ще се вложи ретиноидът – видът, концентрацията му, комбинацията с други активни съставки, помощните вещества в състава.
The most commonly used retinoids in cosmetics depend on the desired effect and the strength with which they need to be applied to the skin according to the treated problem. Their order by strength of action is retinyl palmitate > retinol > retinaldehyde. Prescription products also use retinoic acid – a compound with even stronger action but also a higher risk of side effects and irritation.
If you are struggling with some of the problems listed above, you can't go wrong by choosing a product with a retinoid in the composition!
Vitamin C
It is no secret that it is among the most powerful antioxidants in nature, and when used as an active ingredient in cosmetics, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin in the skin. Besides refreshing and rejuvenating, it is also used in various depigmenting therapies to combat dark spots and scars.
When choosing cosmetic products with vitamin C, it is good to look for the label stating “L-ascorbic acid” – this is the only form of the substance that the skin can absorb when applied topically (i.e., when applied to its surface). Many brands use vitamin C derivatives in their formulas such as ascorbyl palmitate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate – better save your money on such products. Invest wisely in something your skin will truly benefit from.
Vitamin E
An active ingredient that most often appears on cosmetic labels under the code name “tocopherol” or “tocopheryl acetate”. Its action is associated with neutralizing free radicals – help that every aging skin needs. Even better studied is the ability of vitamin E to hydrate – clinical studies prove that it can enhance the barrier function, as well as support the skin's recovery process after wounds and injuries.
We do not claim exhaustiveness with this list, but its purpose is different – to clearly mark the classic active ingredients – tested, effective, and well tolerated by the skin.
However, cosmetology is developing at an incredible pace, and the topic of avant-garde formulas and innovations tops our own priorities. We believe that in the search for new solutions, in combining, researching technologies and possibilities, lies the true mastery of creating exceptional cosmetic products.
Let's open the door to the future and mention some of the most popular new cosmetic ingredients
Ingredients focusing on the skin microbiome – a new generation of “microbiome cosmetics”
Probiotics
Probiotics are increasingly used in cosmetic products, but the new wave brings with it a new understanding of the role of prebiotics (broadly speaking – the food for probiotics) and postbiotics (again broadly speaking – when probiotics digest prebiotics, postbiotics are produced). It should be noted that these will be the real stars in the near future. To clarify: probiotics take care of maintaining the balance of the microbiome (this is the term for the collection of bacteria contained in our body).
For the skin to produce probiotics on its own, it needs prebiotics – that is why you will increasingly see ingredients like xylitol, sorbitol, or fructooligosaccharides on labels.
Postbiotics
Postbiotics are not unknown to us – representatives of this group are already popular cosmetic ingredients like hyaluronic acid and peptides.
Hyaluronic acid is rightly regarded as the “fountain of youth” – its ability to attract and retain water in tissues is amazing! However, when choosing a product with this active ingredient, be demanding!
For optimal hydrating and rejuvenating effect, it is necessary to combine both forms of the acid – high molecular weight and low molecular weight. Very often manufacturers include only one type but actively advertise all the known benefits of this ingredient.
Peptides
Peptides, in turn, are considered the future of anti-aging care – an expensive but promising innovation in the fight against aging.
Tranexamic acid
Cosmetologists boldly state that at certain concentrations it can revolutionize therapies against hyperpigmentation. There is also increasing evidence of its ability to restructure the skin, restoring its youthful appearance. You can now try this valuable next-generation cosmetic ingredient with our newest product – Pure Skin illuminating day cream with SPF50+.
Substances compensating for estrogen deficiency in the skin
It is a fact that within the first 5 years after menopause, collagen in a woman's skin decreases by up to 30%, which in turn leads to loss of density and increased sensitivity. New formulas with phytoestrogens aim to restore balance and improve the condition of aging skin.
Electrolytes – potassium, sodium, magnesium
They are known for their ability to retain water in tissues, and more and more brands are starting to use them (mainly in their lactate compounds) as a cosmetic ingredient to offer a fresher look and optimal hydration.
The journey through the world of cosmetics and their ingredients can truly be endless – but you certainly already know – skin care starts with… properly reading the labels! Arm yourself with patience and remember that the marketers' job is to create beautiful and attractive packaging, but it is your responsibility to decide whether to use its contents on your skin.